Paris Fashion

A Cultural History
Author: Valerie Steele
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN: 1474245498
Category: Design
Page: 344
View: 3266
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Paris has been the international capital of fashion for more than 300 years. Even before the rise of the haute couture, Parisians were notorious for their obsession with fashion, and foreigners eagerly followed their lead. From Charles Frederick Worth to Gabrielle "Coco†? Chanel, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent, fashion history is dominated by the names of Parisian couturiers. But Valerie Steele's Paris Fashion is much more than just a history of great designers. This fascinating book demonstrates that the success of Paris ultimately rests on the strength of its fashion culture – created by a host of fashion performers and spectators, including actresses, dandies, milliners, artists, and writers. First published in 1988 to great international acclaim, this pioneering book has now been completely revised and brought up to date, encompassing the rise of fashion's multiple world cities in the 21st century. Lavishly illustrated, deeply learned, and elegantly written, Valerie Steele's masterwork explores with brilliance and flair why Paris remains the capital of fashion.

Paris Fashion

A Cultural History
Author: Valerie Steele
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing USA
ISBN: 1635571499
Category: Design
Page: 344
View: 1616
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This beautifully illustrated new edition of Paris Fashion examines the history and culture of style in the fashion capital from the 14th century through to the present day. Paris has been the international capital of fashion for more than 300 years. Even before the rise of the haute couture, Parisians were notorious for their obsession with fashion, and foreigners eagerly followed their lead. From Charles Frederick Worth to Gabrielle "Coco†? Chanel, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent, fashion history is dominated by the names of Parisian couturiers. But Valerie Steele's Paris Fashion is much more than just a history of great designers. This fascinating book demonstrates that the success of Paris ultimately rests on the strength of its fashion culture – created by a host of fashion performers and spectators, including actresses, dandies, milliners, artists, and writers. First published in 1988 to great international acclaim, this pioneering book has now been completely revised and brought up to date, encompassing the rise of fashion's multiple world cities in the 21st century. Lavishly illustrated, deeply learned, and elegantly written, Valerie Steele's masterwork explores with brilliance and flair why Paris remains the capital of fashion.

Paris Fashion

A Cultural History
Author: Valerie Steele
Publisher: Berg Publishers
ISBN: 9781859739730
Category: Art
Page: 327
View: 6817
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Paris has been the international capital of style for 300 years. This fascinating book shows that the strength of the French fashion industry rests on the depth and sophistication of its fashion culture.

Listening in Paris

A Cultural History
Author: James H. Johnson
Publisher: Univ of California Press
ISBN: 0520206487
Category: History
Page: 384
View: 778
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This book grew from a simple question. Why did French audiences become silent? Eighteenth-century travelers' accounts of the Paris Opera and memoirs of concertgoers describe a busy, preoccupied public, at times loud and at others merely sociable, but seldom deeply attentive.

The Paris Zone

A Cultural History, 1840-1944
Author: James Cannon
Publisher: Routledge
ISBN: 1317021738
Category: History
Page: 312
View: 6215
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Since the mid-1970s, the colloquial term zone has often been associated with the troubled post-war housing estates on the outskirts of large French cities. However, it once referred to a more circumscribed space: the zone non aedificandi (non-building zone) which encircled Paris from the 1840s to the 1940s. This unusual territory, although marginal in a social and geographical sense, came to occupy a central place in Parisian culture. Previous studies have focused on its urban and social history, or on particular ways in which it was represented during particular periods. By bringing together and analysing a wider range of sources from the duration of the zone’s existence, this study offers a rich and nuanced account of how the area was perceived and used by successive generations of Parisian novelists (including Zola and Flaubert), poets, songwriters, artists, photographers, film-makers, politicians and town-planners. More generally, it aims to raise awareness of a neglected aspect of Parisian cultural history while pointing to links between current and past perceptions of the city’s periphery.

Paris

The Secret History
Author: Andrew Hussey
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing USA
ISBN: 9781608192373
Category: History
Page: 512
View: 4347
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If Adam Gopniks Paris to the Moon described daily life in contemporary Paris, this book describes daily life in Paris throughout its history: a history of the city from the point of view of the Parisians themselves. Paris captures everyones imaginations: Its a backdrop for Prousts fictional pederast, Robert Doisneaus photographic kiss, and Edith Piafs serenaded soldier-lovers; a home as much to romance and love poems as to prostitution and opium dens. The many pieces of the city coexist, each one as real as the next. Whats more, the conflicted identity of the city is visible everywhere-between cobblestones, in bars, on the métro. In this lively and lucid volume, Andrew Hussey brings to life the urchins and artists whove left their marks on the city, filling in the gaps of a history that affected the disenfranchised as much as the nobility. Paris: The Secret History ranges across centuries, movements, and cultural and political beliefs, from Napoleons overcrowded cemeteries to Balzacs nocturnal flight from his debts. For Hussey, Paris is a city whose long and conflicted history continues to thrive and change. The books is a picaresque journey through royal palaces, brothels, and sidewalk cafés, uncovering the rich, exotic, and often lurid history of the worlds most beloved city.

Belgrade

A Cultural History
Author: David A. Norris
Publisher: Oxford University Press
ISBN: 0195376080
Category: History
Page: 255
View: 5053
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Perched above the confluence of two great rivers, the Sava and Danube, Belgrade has been home to many civilizations: Celts, Romans, Byzantines, Bulgars, Magyars, Ottomans and Serbs. A Turkish fortress, the focus for a Serbian principality, an intellectual and artistic center, the city grew until it became capital of Yugoslavia. Now it is one of the largest cities in south-eastern Europe and capital of the Republic of Serbia. Despite many challenges, Belgrade has resisted assimilation and created a unique cultural identity out of its many contrasting sides, sometimes with surprising consequences.

Tour de France

A Cultural History
Author: Christopher S. Thompson
Publisher: Univ of California Press
ISBN: 9780520934863
Category: Bicycle racing
Page: 406
View: 3867
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In this highly original history of the world's most famous bicycle race, Christopher S. Thompson, mining previously neglected sources and writing with infectious enthusiasm for his subject, tells the compelling story of the Tour de France from its creation in 1903 to the present. Weaving the words of racers, politicians, Tour organizers, and a host of other commentators together with a wide-ranging analysis of the culture surrounding the event including posters, songs, novels, films, and media coverage Thompson links the history of the Tour to key moments and themes in French history. Examining the enduring popularity of Tour racers, Thompson explores how their public images have changed over the past century. A new preface explores the long-standing problem of doping in light of recent scandals.

How Paris Became Paris

The Invention of the Modern City
Author: Joan DeJean
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing USA
ISBN: 1608195910
Category: Architecture
Page: 320
View: 2839
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When Paris became the ultimate destination city.

The History of Fashion Journalism


Author: Kate Nelson Best
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN: 1474285171
Category: Language Arts & Disciplines
Page: 304
View: 2988
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The History of Fashion Journalism is a uniquely comprehensive study of the development of the industry from its origins to the present day, and including professionals' such as Dylan Jones's vision of the future. Covering everything from early tailor's catalogues through to contemporary publications such as LOVE, together with blogs such as StyleBubble, and countries from France through to the United States, The History of Fashion Journalism explores the origins and influence of such well-known magazines as Nova, Vogue and Glamour. Combining an overview of the key moments in fashion journalism history with close textual analysis, Kate Nelson Best brings to life the evolving face of the fashion media and its relationship with the fashion industry, national politics, consumer culture and gender. This accessible and highly engaging book will be an invaluable resource not only for fashion studies students but also for those in media studies and cultural studies.

New Orleans

A Cultural History
Author: Louise McKinney
Publisher: Oxford University Press, USA
ISBN: 9780195301359
Category: History
Page: 250
View: 6172
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Examines the multicultural influences that make the Big Easy the least American of American cities, discussing its founders--French and Spanish colonists, Northern adventurers, riverboat men, pirates, and Cajuns--its distinctive Creole culture that influences its language, architecture, and cuisine, and its history as the cultural capital of the American South. Simultaneous.

The Berg Companion to Fashion


Author: Valerie Steele
Publisher: Berg Publishers
ISBN: 1847885632
Category: Art
Page: 782
View: 9484
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Derided by some as frivolous, even dangerous, and celebrated by others as art, fashion is anything but a neutral topic. Behind the hype and the glamour is an industry that affects all cultures of the world. A potent force in the global economy, fashion is also highly influential in everyday lives, even among those who may feel impervious. This handy volume is a one-stop reference for anyone interested in fashion -- its meaning, history and theory. From avedon to codpiece, dandyism to the G-string, Japanese fashion to subcultures, trickle down to Zoot suit, The Berg Companion to Fashion provides a comprehensive overview of this most fascinating of topics and will serve as the benchmark guide to the subject for many years to come. This volume contains over 300 in-depth entries covering designers, articles of clothing, key concepts and styles.

Sandrine's Paris


Author: Sandrine Voillet
Publisher: Random House
ISBN: 0563539119
Category: Travel
Page: 192
View: 5178
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"Last year we fell in love with Francesco da Mosto in Venice. Get ready to fall in love all over again. This time in Paris, and in the company of Sandrine Voillet shes as chic, charming and elegant as the city she adores. To accompany the sumptuous and seductive BBC TV series, the book (also called Sandrine's Paris) combines cultural history, travel and contemporary life in the most romantic city in the world. Travelling through 400 years of history we discover the extraordinary events and people who have shaped the City of Lights. Sandrine reveals and revels in the art, literature, music and architecture that are integral of Paris immortal beauty."

Lifted

A Cultural History of the Elevator
Author: Andreas Bernard
Publisher: NYU Press
ISBN: 0814787169
Category: Architecture
Page: 309
View: 919
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Before skyscrapers forever transformed the landscape of the modern metropolis, the conveyance that made them possible had to be created. Invented in New York in the 1850s, the elevator became an urban fact of life on both sides of the Atlantic by the early twentieth century. While it may at first glance seem a modest innovation, it had wide-ranging effects, from fundamentally restructuring building design to reinforcing social class hierarchies by moving luxury apartments to upper levels, previously the domain of the lower classes. The cramped elevator cabin itself served as a reflection of life in modern growing cities, as a space of simultaneous intimacy and anonymity, constantly in motion. In this elegant and fascinating book, Andreas Bernard explores how the appearance of this new element changed notions of verticality and urban space. Transforming such landmarks as the Waldorf-Astoria and Ritz Tower in New York, he traces how the elevator quickly took hold in large American cities while gaining much slower acceptance in European cities like Paris and Berlin. Combining technological and architectural history with the literary and cinematic, Bernard opens up new ways of looking at the elevator--as a secular confessional when stalled between floors or as a recurring space in which couples fall in love. Rising upwards through modernity, Lifted takes the reader on a compelling ride through the history of the elevator.

Fashioning the City

Paris, Fashion and the Media
Author: Agnes Rocamora
Publisher: I.B.Tauris
ISBN: 0857731130
Category: Social Science
Page: 256
View: 4640
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The fashion media have been central to the consecration of the city of Paris on the fashion map, as well as its celebration in the collective imagination. Indeed, with its conjunction of images and words, the fashion press constitutes a rich platform for an interrogation of how Paris has come to be constituted as a leading fashion city. Yet while much attention has been paid to the making of Paris in the work of various writers and artists, little is known about the city as defined and created by the fashion media. Based on an original analysis of fashion writing and images in contemporary French fashion magazines and newspapers, this illuminating book focuses on the discourse of the contemporary French fashion press on Paris, and so attends to this gap in studies of the French capital. Agnès Rocamora explores, for example, the figures of la Parisienne and la passante (the female passer-by), and the presence of the Eiffel Tower in fashion visuals. She gives attention to the continuum between the French journalistic discourse and that of cultural forms such as films, paintings and literature, thus revealing the persistence across texts and time of visions of Paris and shedding light on the production and reproduction of the Paris myth.

Icons of Fashion

The 20th Century
Author: Gerda Buxbaum
Publisher: Prestel Pub
ISBN: 9783791333120
Category: Art
Page: 192
View: 9035
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A boldly rendered twentieth-century fashion history spans the entire tempestuous century, featuring the key stylistic periods, designers, and celebrities who moved fashion along at its frenetic pace, with contributions from Andrea Affaticati, Gerda Buxbaum, Deanna Ferneti Cera, Carlo Ducci, Jane Milosch, and others.

Men and Women

Dressing the Part
Author: Claudia Brush Kidwell,Valerie Steele
Publisher: Smithsonian Books (DC)
ISBN: N.A
Category: Clothing and dress
Page: 188
View: 8673
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Capital Cities at War

Paris, London, Berlin 1914-1919
Author: Jay Winter,Jean-Louis Robert
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
ISBN: 9780521668149
Category: History
Page: 622
View: 6138
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This ambitious volume marks a huge step in our understanding of the social history of the Great War. Jay Winter and Jean-Louis Robert have gathered a group of scholars of London, Paris and Berlin, who collectively have drawn a coherent and original study of cities at war. The contributors explore notions of well-being in wartime cities - relating to the economy and the question of whether the state of the capitals contributed to victory or defeat. Expert contributors in fields stretching from history, demography, anthropology, economics, and sociology to the history of medicine, bring an interdisciplinary approach to the book, as well as representing the best of recent research in their own fields. Capital Cities at War, one of the few truly comparative works on the Great War, will transform studies of the conflict, and is likely to become a paradigm for research on other wars.

The Corset

A Cultural History
Author: Valerie Steele
Publisher: Yale University Press
ISBN: 0300099533
Category: Art
Page: 199
View: 3774
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The corset is probably the most controversial garment in the history of fashion. Although regarded as an essential element of fashionable dress from the Renaissance into the twentieth century, the corset was also frequently condemned as an instrument of torture and the cause of ill health. Why did women continue to don steel and whalebone corsets for four hundred years? And why did they finally stop? This book offers fascinating and often surprising answers to these questions. Valerie Steele, one of the world’s most respected fashion historians, explores the cultural history of the corset, demolishing myths about this notorious garment and revealing new information and perspectives on its changing significance over the centuries. Whereas most historians have framed the history of the corset in terms of oppression vs. liberation and fashion vs. health and comfort, Steele contends that women’s experiences of corsetry varied considerably and cannot be fully understood within these narrow frames. Drawing on extensive research in textual, visual, and materials sources, the author disproves the beliefs that the corset was dangerously unhealthy and was designed primarily for the oppression of women. Women persisted in wearing corsets - despite powerful male authorities trying to dissuade them - because corsetry had positive connotations of social status, self-discipline, youth, and beauty. In the twentieth century the garment itself fell out of fashion but, Steele points out, it has become internalized as women replace the boned corset with diet, exercise, and plastic surgery.