A lavishly illustrated tribute to one of the most remarkable self-invented personalities on the New York fashion scene
Her penchant for extreme fashion and make-up have made her name the equivalent of a couture label among the 'Fashion Underground,' a diverse group of individuals united around a love of fashion, defined as an embodied practice of self ...
Author: Valerie Steele
This easy-to-use guide covers the history, development, and current workings of cybercurrencies and the underground economy, both in the United States and around the world. The world of cybercurrency has experienced explosive growth in recent years, but that expansion has been accompanied by numerous controversies and misunderstandings about what it is, how it works, and how it relates to the underground economy and illegal activities such as money laundering, tax evasion, and human trafficking. Many illegal or malicious activities are paid for with cyber currencies. This book covers those applications. But cyber currencies also have many legitimate, constructive applications, all of which are explained in Rogue Money in clear, plain English, without embellishment or exaggeration. An authoritative and thought-provoking reference for readers seeking a greater understanding of all aspects of alternative cybercurrencies, this encyclopedia includes entries on economic history, international trade, current controversies, and its impact on the wider underground economy. It peels back the layers of jargon and obfuscation, giving each topic individual attention to show how it works and contributes to the whole. Features approximately 175 entries on cybercurrencies and the underground economy Provides background on how major underground economic activities work to put cybercurrencies in context Discusses the benefits and drawbacks of the increased role of cybercurrencies in today's underground economy Includes an appendix of illuminating primary documents, providing insights into key historical developments
FASHION COIN While the development of a token- or coin-based art market may lead to art trading advantages and more investments and funding for the arts, ...
Author: John C. Edmunds
Category: Business & Economics
The literary scholar Alfrun Kliems explores the aesthetic strategies of Eastern European underground literature, art, film and music in the decades before and after the fall of communism, ranging from the ‘father’ of Prague Underground, Egon Bondy, to the neo-Dada Club of Polish Losers in Berlin. The works she considers are "underground" in the sense that they were produced illegally, or were received as subversive after the regimes had fallen. Her study challenges common notions of ‘underground’ as an umbrella term for nonconformism. Rather, it depicts it as a sociopoetic reflection of modernity, intimately linked to urban settings, with tropes and aesthetic procedures related to Surrealism, Dadaism, Expressionism, and, above all, pop and counterculture. The author discusses these commonalities and distinctions in Czech, Polish, Slovak, Ukrainian, Russian, and German authors, musicians, and filmmakers. She identifies intertextual relations across languages and generations, and situates her findings in a transatlantic context (including the Beat Generation, Susan Sontag, Neil Young) and the historical framework of Romanticism and modernity (including Baudelaire and Brecht). Despite this wide brief, the book never loses sight of its core message: Underground is no arbitrary expression of discontent, but rather the result of a fundamental conflict at the socio-philosophical roots of modernity.
In this fashion, underground works function “as part of a provocative and demythologizing campaign against idealized social and existential constructs” ...
Author: Alfrun Kliems
Publisher: Central European University Press
Category: Literary Criticism
Digging mineral wealth from the ground dates to prehistoric times, and Europeans pursued mining in the Americas from the earliest colonial days. Prior to the Civil War, little mining was deep enough to require maps. However, the major finds of the mid-nineteenth century, such as the Comstock Lode, were vastly larger than any before in America. In Seeing Underground, Nystrom argues that, as industrial mining came of age in the United States, the development of maps and models gave power to a new visual culture and allowed mining engineers to advance their profession, gaining authority over mining operations from the miners themselves. Starting in the late nineteenth century, mining engineers developed a new set of practices, artifacts, and discourses to visualize complex, pitch-dark three-dimensional spaces. These maps and models became necessary tools in creating and controlling those spaces. They made mining more understandable, predictable, and profitable. Nystrom shows that this new visual culture was crucial to specific developments in American mining, such as implementing new safety regulations after the Avondale, Pennsylvania fire of 1869 killed 110 men and boys; understanding complex geology, as in the rich ores of Butte, Montana; and settling high-stakes litigation, such as the Tonopah, Nevada, Jim Butler v. West End lawsuit, which reached the US Supreme Court. Nystrom demonstrates that these neglected artifacts of the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries have much to teach us today. The development of a visual culture helped create a new professional class of mining engineers and changed how mining was done. Seeing Undergound is the winner of the 2015 Mining History Association’s Clark Spence Award for the best book on mining history.
... trouble provided the preconditions for innovation in underground mapping. ... tracing a vein in a continuous fashion underground from its surface apex ...
Author: Eric C. Nystrom
Publisher: University of Nevada Press
Category: Technology & Engineering
"The fifteenth annual fashion symposium, 'Fashion Underground: The world of Susanne Bartsch,' explored the creative links between Bartsch’s 30 years of sartorial self-expression and its influence on the global fashion scene. Twenty-one speakers discussed the impact and the influence that Susanne Bartsch has had on fashion and nightlife. Speakers included Simon Doonan (Creative Ambassador-at-Large of Barneys New York), Stephen Jones (milliner), and Peter McNeil (professor at University of Technology Sydney and at Stockholm University)"--Museum at FIT web site.
"The fifteenth annual fashion symposium, 'Fashion Underground: The world of Susanne Bartsch,' explored the creative links between Bartsch’s 30 years of sartorial self-expression and its influence on the global fashion scene.
Category: Clothing and dress
Several thousand people travel on the London underground daily where life is fully representative of the cosmopolitan nature and the diversity of everyday London. In Tales of the Underground, author Olayemi Karim offers a guide to help people understand the nuances and the cultural peculiarities of traveling in the city. Olayemi, who commutes daily to the city for her job, began documenting the interesting experiences of her travels on the rails on both her Facebook page and blog. She records the unspoken rules and the expected behaviors in the London transportation network, for instance, the strange look returned by commuters, when caught staring. She also explains a number of common sights and things observed on the Underground as well as unusual and often humorous situations. Tales of the Underground gives a fly-on-the-wall narrative of seemingly innocuous and unconnected events which, when pieced together, offers an understanding of both the travelers and the flavors of London.
On second thoughts, if they all complied with my fashion sense, then the underground would not be an interesting place and we would be starved of tales for ...
Author: Olayemi Karim
The relationship between popular music and fashion has been a culturally significant one since the 1950s, and this book explores how music and musicians play a key role in the shaping of identity, taste and consumption. Using a range of historical and contemporary examples, this book uncovers the way in which fashion and music have worked to shape contemporary attitudes to bodies and identities. Focusing on performers as much as fans, on the mainstream as much as the underground, Fashion and Music provides a lens through which to examine themes of gender, sexuality, ageing and youth, ethnicity, body image, consumer culture, fandom and postmodernity.
... Warhol's visionary dalliances with celebrity culture, becoming famous overnight for developing a 'scene' focused on art, fashion and the underground.
Author: Janice Miller
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
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deadly sins , stop for a moment and look at me . Death . I ' m looking at you .
Author: Sebastiano Brandolini
Fashion . This is the new lifeblood of customers to go underground . stairs . Some
stores have fairly rigid rules the budget department and shrewd merThe faltering
sales picture at the major on upstairs versus downstairs resource chandisers ...
Category: Clothing trade
Includes detailed maps of the known routes and railroad sites. Organized in antebellum America to help slaves escape to freedom, the Underground Railroad was cloaked in secrecy and operated at great peril to everyone involved. The system was extremely active in Pennsylvania, with routes in all parts of the state.This book retraces those routes, discusses the large city networks, identifies the houses and sites where escapees found refuge, and records the names of the people who risked their lives to support the operation.
In typical railroad fashion , this route was filled with subroutes , backtracks , and alternatives . Because Pittsburgh was such a large city , it appears ...
Author: William J. Switala
Publisher: Stackpole Books
Studies of fashion and literature in recent decades have focused primarily on representations of clothing and dress within literary texts. But what about the author? How did he dress? What where her shopping practices and predilections? What were his alliances with modishness, stylishness, fashion? The essays in this book explore these and other questions as they look at authors from the eighteenth century through the postmodern and digital eras, cultural producers who were also men and women of fashion: Alexander Pope, Hester Thrale, Mary Robinson, Lord Byron, William Thackeray, Charlotte Bronte, Wilkie Collins, Margaret Oliphant, Virginia Woolf, Rebecca West, Trudi Kanter, Angela Carter, and Martin Margiela. The essays collected here ultimately converge upon a fundamental question: what happens to our notions of timeless literature when authorship itself is implicated in the transient and the temporary, the cycles and materials of fashion? “Gerald Egan’s provocative introduction to this exciting new book poses a bold question: How are authorship and literature – so often linked to ideas of transcendence – implicated in the transient trends and stuff of fashion? The thirteen chapters that follow track authorship’s complex implication in the discourses and materiality of fashion and fashionable goods from the eighteenth to the twentieth centuries. Wide-ranging in discipline and chronology, yet forensically focused and carefully argued, this book makes a striking and wonderfully original contribution to studies of authorship, celebrity and material culture.” — Dr Jennie Batchelor, Professor of Eighteenth-Century Studies,University of Kent, UK
... I went to visit her rigged out in all the atrocious sartorial splendour of the underground high-style of the late fifties, black mesh stockings, ...
Author: Gerald Egan
Publisher: Springer Nature
Category: Literary Criticism
Producing a book on fashion in the 1980s is not merely a question of immortalizing one of the most feverish periods of invention, creativity and variety in our recent history. It also means providing a window on the increasingly pervasive advance of show-business society, and on the origins of the designer "total living" environment in which we are now permanently submerged. Ralph Lauren pillowcases, anyone? How about a sip of Absolut from my Calvin Klein Home champagne glasses? Excess: Fashion and the Underground in the 80s chronicles the achievements of the fashion establishment in Italy and the rest of the world via its protagonists and trends. It considers the who, what, where, when and why of an industry that has become an economic phenomenon, with enormous influence on global culture and communication. It catalogues a world in which fashions by Armani, Versace, Valentino, Gianfranco Ferré, Fendi, Missoni, Moschino, Dolce & Gabbana, Fiorucci, Thierry Mugler, Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, Katherine Hamnett, Azzedine Alaëa, Calvin Klein, and John Galliano appear in magazines like Vogue, Elle, Donna, Mondo Uomo, Harper's Bazaar, The Face, i-D, Interview, Vanity Fair, GQ and Visionaire. It features work by 80s hotshot artists like Helmut Newton, Bruce Weber, Cindy Sherman, Nan Goldin, Andy Warhol, Jenny Holzer, Robert Mapplethorpe, Barbara Kruger, Gilbert & George, Pierre et Gilles and Leigh Bowery. Empirically organized as an index, Excess offers an indispensable point of reference for fashionistas, critics and students. Rather than operating chronologically, it functions thematically, under such categories as Career Women, Sexy Women, American Gigolo, Night Clubbing, Wild Boys, Yuppies, and Graffiti. A special section curated by Peter de Potter is dedicated to the Neo Œ80s, featuring fashions by Jeremy Scott, Louis Vuitton, Berhard Willhelm, Balenciaga, Veronique Branquinho and Bottega Veneta, as seen in the pages of Butt, Dazed & Confused, SleazeNation, Spin, Self Service and Another Magazine. Additionally included are a series of appendices--equally balanced between mainstream and underground--which catalogue the new professions, new words and new fashions.
"Excess: Fashion and the Underground in the 80s" chronicles the achievements of the fashion establishment in Italy and the rest of the world via its protagonists and trends.
Author: Maria Luisa Frisa
To celebrate the 150th anniversary of the Tube, the Penguin Underground Lines brings together 12 books by writers ranging from John O'Farrell to John Lanchester, Lucy Wadham to the Kids' Company Name: Penguin Underground Lines Date of Birth: will be born 7th March 2013 Vital statistics: Twelve books, one for each Underground line, to celebrate the Tube's 150th anniversary Idea for series: Penguin asked twelve people to tell their tale of the city in 15,000 words (or in one case, no words at all), each inspired by a different tube line. Defining characteristics: While the responses range from the polemical to the fantastical, the personal to the societal, they offer something for every taste. Read individually they're delightful small reads, pulled together they offer a particular portrait of a global city. The 12 authors: Fantastic Man; Kids Company; Danny Dorling; John Lanchester; William Leith; Richard Mabey; Paul Morley; John O'Farrell; Philippe Parreno; Leanne Shapton; Lucy Wadham; Peter York 'Authors include the masterly John Lanchester, the children of Kids Company, comic John O'Farrell and social geographer Danny Dorling. Ranging from the polemical to the fantastical, the personal to the societal, they offer something for every taste. All experience the city as a cultural phenomenon and notice its nature and its people. Read individually they're delightful small reads, pulled together they offer a particular portrait of a global city' Evening Standard 'Exquisitely diverse' The Times 'Eclectic and broad-minded ... beautifully designed' Tom Cox, Observer 'A fascinating collection with a wide range of styles and themes. The design qualities are excellent, as you might expect from Penguin with a consistent look and feel while allowing distinctive covers for each book. This is a very pleasing set of books' A Common Reader blog 'The contrasts and transitions between books are as stirring as the books themselves ... A multidimensional literary jigsaw' Londonist 'A series of short, sharp, city-based vignettes - some personal, some political and some pictorial ... each inimitable author finds that our city is complicated but ultimately connected, full of wit, and just the right amount of grit' Fabric Magazine 'A collection of beautiful books' Grazia
But fashion, on the whole, has moved on. Even Tom Ford has shifted his allegiances: backin2002, heoffereda collection ofarch, starchedwing collaredevening ...
Publisher: Penguin UK
Paul Clements champions the creative underground and expressions of difference through visionary avant-garde and resistant ideas. This is represented by an admixture of utopian literature, manifestos and lifestyles which challenge normality and attempt to reinvent society, as practiced for example, by radicals in bohemian enclaves or youth subcultures. He showcases a range of 'art' and participatory cultural practices that are examined sociopolitically and historically, employing key theoretical ideas which highlight their contribution to aesthetic thinking, political ideology, and public discourse. A reevaluation of the arts and progressive modernism can reinvigorate culture through active leisure and post-work possibilities beyond materialism and its constraints, thereby presenting alternatives to established understandings and everyday cultural processes. The book teases out the difficult relationship between the individual, culture and society especially in relation to autonomy and marginality, while arguing that the creative underground is crucial for a better world, as it offers enchantment, vitality and hope.
Ripped clothes rather than suggesting poverty were a statement of aggression, all part of a new range of iconic imagery transcoding established meanings in ...
Author: Paul Clements
Publisher: Taylor & Francis
For more than three decades, a punk underground has repeatedly insisted that 'anyone can do it'. This underground punk movement has evolved via several micro-traditions, each offering distinct and novel presentations of what punk is, isn't, or should be. Underlying all these punk micro-traditions is a politics of empowerment that claims to be anarchistic in character, in the sense that it is contingent upon a spontaneous will to liberty (anyone can do it - in theory). How valid, though, is punk's faith in anarchistic empowerment? Exploring theories from Derrida and Marx, Anyone Can Do It: Empowerment, Tradition and the Punk Underground examines the cultural history and politics of punk. In its political resistance, punk bears an ideological relationship to the folk movement, but punk's faith in novelty and spontaneous liberty distinguish it from folk: where punk's traditions, from the 1970s onwards, have tended to search for an anarchistic 'new-sense', folk singers have more often been socialist/Marxist traditionalists, especially during the 1950s and 60s. Detailed case studies show the continuities and differences between four micro-traditions of punk: anarcho-punk, cutie/'C86', riot grrrl and math rock, thus surveying UK and US punk-related scenes of the 1980s, 1990s and beyond.
... not in style, but in substance.1 The year is 1994 and the writer, a notable figure in the US underground music scene of the day, is watching punk begin ...
Author: Pete Dale
The postwar histories of Paris and Amsterdam have been significantly defined by the notion of the underground as both a material and metaphorical space. Examining the underground traffic between the two cities, this book interrogates the countercultural histories of Paris and Amsterdam in the mid to late-twentieth century. Shuttling between Paris and Amsterdam, as well as between postwar avant-gardism and twenty-first century global urbanism, this interdisciplinary book seeks to create a mirroring effect over the notion of the underground as a driving force in the making of the contemporary European city.
in an underground fashion through post-war America were most famously given a wider public in Norman Mailer's extended essay The White Negro: Superficial ...
Author: Christoph Lindner
Publisher: Amsterdam University Press
Category: Social Science
Read stories inspired by the four Underground lines that run around and through areas of London - part of a series of twelve books tied to the twelve lines of the London Underground, as Tfl celebrates 150 years of the Tube with Penguin. Family, passion and fashion come together in four tales: The Circle Line: From Lucy Wadham, the bestselling author of The Secret Life of France, an autobiographical tale of bohemians, punk, the King's Road in the 1970s and family. The Metropolitan Line: Richard Mabey, one of Britain's leading nature writers, looks in A Good Parcel of English Soil at the relationship between city and country, and how this brings out the power of nature The East London Line: London is a centre of cutting-edge fashion - here, the creators of 'the best fashion mag out there', Fantastic Man, tell the story of London style through the history of the button-down shirt. The Waterloo & City Line: Leanne Shapton, author of Important Artifacts and Personal Property from the Collection of Lenore Doolan and Harold Morris and Swimming Studies, creates an authorly and artistic response to travel, work and being a passenger.
Could be both, but truth be told you don't think of clothes when you hear those words, you think of people. The language of clothes is persuasive, ...
Publisher: Penguin UK
While there is nothing new or unusual about underground musicians making uneasy alliances with mainstream record companies , this was a notable event for ...
Author: United States. Congress. House. Committee on the Judiciary. Subcommittee on Courts, the Internet, and Intellectual Property
Category: Clothing trade
The Handbook of Fashion Studies identifies an innovative spectrum of thematic approaches, key strands and interdisciplinary concepts that continue to push forward the boundaries of fashion studies. The book is divided into seven sections: Fashion, Identity and Difference; Spaces of Fashion; Fashion and Materiality; Fashion, Agency and Policy; Science, Technology and New fashion; Fashion and Time and, Sustainable Fashion in a Globalised world. Each section consists of approximately four essays authored by established researchers in the field from the UK, USA, Netherlands, Sweden, Canada and Australia. The essays are written by international subject specialists who each engage with their section's theme in the light of their own discipline and provide clear case-studies to further knowledge on fashion. This consistency provides clarity and permits comparative analysis. The handbook will be essential reading for students of fashion as well as professionals in the industry.
A stereotype exists of lesbians having poor fashion sense, ... of lesbian style, whether local or international, underground or visible, femme or butch.
Author: Sandy Black
Publisher: A&C Black
Category: Social Science
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